marrakech travel guide - lifewithbugo.com
Africa,  Morocco,  Travel

Travel guide to Marrakech

I have always wanted to visit Morocco. It is a country I had seen in photos and dreamt of checking out so many times. When we finally put it on our 2023 travel list, I was so excited. Initially, the plan was to fly to Casablanca and then spend some time in Marrakech and a day trip to Chefchaouen. However, the logistics around this was too stressful once our baby was added to the mix. We settled with Marrakech as it felt like the must visit city if we had to choose one. After spending a week in the city, this is a first timer’s travel guide to Marrakech.

Marrakech, Morocco

Marrakech is in western Morocco and its name originates from the Berber word to mean “Land of God”. It is the 3rd largest city in Morocco after Casablanca and Fez. Its charm is its medina, which dates back to the Berber empire and of course, its red walls which are noticeable from any point of the city. The medina feels like a city on its own with bustling souks, alleys that resemble mazes and boisterous Moroccans eager to sell their wares.

London to Marrakech

London to Marrakech is quite a popular route. There are flights from all London airports and with most airlines. We flew Ryan Air from London Stansted Airport to Marrakech Menara Airport and the flight lasted 3hrs 30 minutes.

Everything you need to know before you visit Marrakech
  • The Moroccan currency is the Moroccan Dirham (code: MAD). I noticed the code was DH in some places.
  • Cash is KING. We were surprised that even in some of the heritage sites, we could only purchase tickets with cash.
  • Riads are inconspicuous. From outside, it will look like a random door but once in, it’s a whole new fantastic world.
  • Buy a sim card at the airport or at least, roam your network. You need the internet especially google maps if you are planning to navigate the Medina successfully. We paid 200 MAD for 20 GB.
  • Languages spoken include Arabic, French, Berber and English. We got by with English in the hotels and restaurants; French in the medina.
  • Walk on the right when exploring the medina so the motorcycles can drive (like crazy people) through the middle. PS – NOBODY FOLLOWS THIS RULE.
  • Taxi is quite cheap; you’ll find them in designated areas all around; yellow and licensed. 
  • Glovo – food delivery app. Riad BE staff recommended it and we used it to order once late night to our hotel; it was very efficient – quick & app is easy to use.
  • Nothing is free. If you ask for direction and someone offers to walk you to where you’ve asked about, you need to pay. 
  • Be careful with taking photos especially in Jemma el-Fna. You will be asked to pay if you take photos of the snake charmers, street dancers etc. As mentioned above, nothing is free.
Travel guide to Marrakech – where to stay in Marrakech

It has to be a Riad. There are fancy hotels in Marrakech and there is of course, La Mamounia, which is the only 5 star hotel in Marrakech. However, staying in a riad is all part of the Marrakech experience. Riads are much smaller (read: cosier) than hotels as they were built for families. They also have fewer rooms and each room is typically unique.

We stayed in 2 riads for the week we were in Marrakech. First, we checked into Riad Sakkan for the 1st part of our trip and then, Riad BE for the 2nd part of the trip. Both riads were wonderful and I think they made our Marrakech experience a million times better. 

Typically, riads are not as child friendly as hotels especially the older ones. The steps are steep, there is most likely a pool just outside the room and a lot of sharp edges. My main aim was to research the most child friendly riads in Marrakech and I think I achieved that. Riad Sakkan was more design focused and Riad BE was more traditional. I highly recommend both for couples, families, solo and group travellers.

Riad Be, Marrakech
Riad BE
Riad Sakkan - lifewithbugo.com
Riad Sakkan

Book RIAD BE

Book RIAD SAKKAN

The Riad Sakkan Copper bath - Travel Guide to Marrakech
Riad BE rooftop - Travel Guide to Marrakech
Riad Sakkan rooftop - Travel Guide to Marrakech
Travel guide to Marrakech – what to do in Marrakech

1. Ben Youssef Madrasa

One thing Marrakech will give you is history. Ben Youssef Madrasa is an Islamic college that is also a historical site. It was completed in 1564 and is the most beautiful example of Islamic and Moroccan architecture. It is one of the most important buildings in Marrakech and it is no wonder why it is so popular with tourists.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

2. Musée de Marrakech

Next to Ben Youssef Madrasa is the Musée de Marrakech. The Madrasa steals all the spotlight in the area but the Musée is worth visiting. Its courtyard is so pretty and when the sun is not too harsh, it’s the perfect spot for people watching as it slightly opens to the square. I really liked this spot and it is not as busy as a lot of the other popular locations.

Musée de Marrakech

3. Jardin Secret

This was such a cute find in the middle of the medina. An oasis of serenity as you walk through the bustling medina. Entry cost 80 DH per person (free for kids under 6) so it was somewhat pricey but we enjoyed strolling around. It was quiet when we went and after taking some photos, we relaxed under the pavilion to people watch. There is an alfresco restaurant which I thought was cute but we skipped it since we already had lunch plans elsewhere.

Le Jardin Secret, Marrakech - Travel Guide to Marrakech
4. Musée des Confluences Dar-El Bacha

Of all the museums, I genuinely think this is the one not to miss. After 2 unsuccessful attempts to visit both the museum and café, we decided to try one last time. 3rd time is a charm right?! And yes, we got in. Although the café had a 1hr wait period, it was manageable since we were going to the museum first.

Entry to the museum was 60DH per person, which was the most expensive of all the museums we visited. We walked into this beautiful garden and around it were walls of Moroccan architecture. The garden had a fountain and several orange trees. It is one of the most beautiful places we visited. After our tour of the museum, we headed to its Bacha Coffee House.

5. A guided Medina Tour to explore to Souks

One of the most cultural things to do is a guided tour to familiarise yourself and a travel guide to Marrakech would be incomplete without exploring the souks. 

The Medina is Marrakech’s old city and it is a UNESCO heritage site. Walking though the medina is like walking through an unending maze. Therefore, we decided to hire a guide for a half-day tour. Our riad, Riad Sakkan booked the guide, Said who met us at the riad and took us through the medina.

The Souks in the Medina, Marrakech

6. Jardin Majorelle

In any travel guide to Marrakech, a visit to Jardin Majorelle is usually featured. However, the reviews I had read for Jardin Majorelle were not great I must admit; but did this put me off? Not at all. If I want to visit somewhere, I will and I am so glad I did. We booked our tickets online and picked a 9 am slot. As it opens at 8 am, I thought to get there early-ish to enjoy it before it gets busy. We got there just before 9 am, queued for a few minutes and once it was 9am on the dot, we were let in.

There’s a lovely (and very well priced) gift shop at the end. This was where we purchased some “love” cards with paintings by Mr Yves Saint Laurent that marked our birth years. Our wonderful morning ended at the Majorelle café; where Mr E had a latté and I had tea.

Tips:

  • Purchase tickets online a few days before as slots go quickly.
  • Don’t be late. You probably wont be allowed in if you miss your slot.
Jardin Majorelle, Travel Guide to Marrakech. Lifewithbugo.com
7. Day trip/Overnight stay in the Agafay desert

This is a MUST DO! Since we knew we could not make it to the Atlas mountain, we decided to go to Agafay instead. It is under an hour from Marrakech and our riad, Riad BE had a luxury campsite so we booked a day pass.

It is more incredible to book an overnight stay; as you can catch the sunset, watch the stars twinkle in the night and wake up to a stunning sunrise. However, we thought it might be too much for our baby so a day pass worked out better. We had access to the pool, the grounds and lunch. I also got a tour of the rooms and immediately regretted not staying over night – the rooms are STUNNING and huge!

BE Agafay in Travel Guide to Marrakech

8. Moroccan Hammam

How can you visit Morocco and not do a Hammam treatment? We chose to do this on our final night so we would feel refreshed going back home. Although, let’s be honest, when you are travelling with a baby, how can you ever feel refreshed? LOL. Most riads and hotels will offer this experience and we did ours with Riad BE. I started with a massage, then a hammam and a mint tea to finish up the experience. 10/10 I must admit.

9. Visit Jemaa el-Fna Square

Jemaa el-Fna Square is often referred to as the “heart of Marrakech” and its easy to see why. It’s like the melting point of everyone who is in the city at any point in time. When you are there, it feels like everyone in Marrakech decided to assemble at the square at the same time. It is very fascinating and overwhelming at the same time but not something to miss. It is spectacular and I have not seen anything like it. There are side by side food and drink stalls, snake charmers, restaurants, dancers, storytellers etc. Our guide had told us to get there just before sunset and showed us to a restaurant, Argana. We got the best seats in the house and watched the sun set on the square. One of the most chaotic yet beautiful sights I had ever seen.

There’s a lot I could write about this square but it is better to see it for yourself.

Jemma El Fna Square, Marrackech in Travel Guide to Marrakech

10. Watch the sunset from a rooftop

Marrakech has one of the most incredible sunsets I have ever seen. We watched ours from our riad rooftops and also Argana’s rooftop. I must admit, the one we watched at Argana was the most magical of them all as it overlooked Jemma el-Fna square.

sunset at Jemaa el Fna, Marrakech
Travel guide to Marrakech – where to eat in Marrakech

Marrakech is known for its flavourful foods. This is to be expected considering all the spices that tantalise your senses when you walk through the spice parts of the medina. Tajine is their traditional cuisine and most restaurants will have it on their menu. Although I am not a travel foodie at all – just give me seafood pasta and I’m good – I was determined to try some of the Moroccan delicacies.

We had some chicken tagine, merguez sausage and of course, A LOT of mint tea!

Nomad

This was one that had been recommended by most on Instagram. We found it just off the spice market and were ushered to its famous rooftop. I ordered the chicken tagine and Mr E ordered the fish of the day. For my 1st tagine experience, I was disappointed because it did not come in the traditional tagine pot. It just looked like any other food tbh; however, it tasted yummy so let’s go with that. The food was yummy but I think most people go there for the views.

Nomad Marrakech, Travel Guide to Marrakech
Nomad Marrakech
Argana

I absolutely loved this one. We had spent the day on a Medina tour with our guide, Said. Afterwards, he recommended Argana for dinner while we watched the sunset. This was honestly one of the most magical evenings we had. I don’t think I remember much about the food but sitting in the most premium spot, watching the sun set over Jemaa el-Fna was magic.

Mr E and I had pasta; I had seafood and he had chicken. We were going to order tagine but decided to get something our baby could eat as well.

Argana, Marrakech
Bacha Coffee

This might have been our favourite place to eat. It was paired with our trip to Musée des Confluences. Once we arrived, we were given a buzzer and told that wait time was about an hour and a half; we’d be buzzed in once our number was ready. After an hour wait (read: admiring the art in the Museum), we were buzzed in. Yes, it is well worth the wait. It is a historic coffee house since 1910 that serves all types of Arabica coffee from around the worlds. Mr E is a huge coffee lover so I knew he’d enjoy it. Bacha Coffee is also known for its delicious patisserie and brunches. I had a hot chocolate and mille feuille; Mr E ordered one of their fancy coffees and a chocolate slice. Everything was so yummy! We ended up visiting the gift shop and taking home a souvenir.

Dar-El bacha Coffee, - Travel Guide to Marrakech
FAQs - Travel Guide to Marrakech

What do I wear in Marrakech?

Anything. Except when you are visiting religious sites, dressing is pretty relaxed in Marrakech. It is advisable to dress modestly in Morocco; however, the rule is possibly not as strict in Marrakech.

Is Marrakech child friendly?

Surprisingly, yes. I was quite surprised how everywhere catered to babies especially in restaurants. Riads are tricky though and not all are family friendly. The tip is to research properly for child friendly ones. I ended up emailing a few to double check and both Sakkan and BE came back to me with positive responses.

Can I stay in a hotel in Marrakech?

Yes, but a riad is more traditional so it depends on what you want from your trip. Riads are also quite affordable in comparison to hotels.

Is Marrakech expensive?

In comparison to London, no. We found things quite affordable and much cheaper than in London.

Riad or Hotel in Marrakech?

Riad, always.

Marrakech or Marrakesh?

Either. Marrakesh is the English spelling and Marrakech is the French spelling.

Koutoubia Mosque
Koutoubia Mosque - Free entry but only to Muslims
Travel guide to Marrakech -To go or not to go?

We enjoyed Marrakech and even discussed where else we would like to visit in Morocco. I know that Marrakech can feel too much for some especially the souks in the Medina but it’s such a charming city that I think everyone needs to visit at least once in their lifetime. Marrakech is perfect for travelling with kids, baecations and group travel. I think it could be too overwhelming for solo travellers unless you are quite experienced in solo travelling.

Until my next trip….

….Bisous, Bugo x

9 Comments

  • Itinerary Plans

    Hi Bugo
    When this article hadn’t been written, I might have decided to visit Morocco. This is a thorough and realistic account of a visit to Marrakech, which is a highly recommended location. Please let no one be afraid to travel to Marrakesh.

  • Pam Brandist

    Hi Bugo

    Me and my husband have booked to go to Marrakech from a small break in September and then a longer stay over Christmas & new year, we are staying in a beautiful Riad and already have found the owner of the Riad & staff to be so helpful and are already putting things in place to make sure our stay is a memorable one. I have read your blog and found it very helpful, we are taking onboard what we read from people who have already travelled to Marrakech but I’m sure the owner & staff at our Riad will point us in the right direction also as we want the most authentic experience, do as the locals do, eat where the locals eat ect.

    • Bugo

      Marrakech is beautiful and you will love it! We absoluteley loved it and will most likely return next year. I hope you have the best time. Enjoy! x

  • I. S.

    “I think it could be too overwhelming for solo travellers unless you are quite experienced in solo travelling.”

    This is such a nonsense. As if solo travelers are per se overwhelmed.

    Small minded and generalizing assumption. As if solo travelers are mentally disabled.

    Woman, correct your perspective.

    • Bugo

      Maybe if you actually read to understand instead of read to react, you’d understand better. Maybe next time, read it slowly, word for word, letter by letter like you are being taught in school 🙂

      It IS overwhelming if you are new to solo travelling due to Marrakech being a typical bustling/busy city to navigate and not because the solo traveller is “mentally disabled” – a term you have used derogatorily!

      I have decided to reply and not delete your comment so that maybe, just maybe, you can learn to not be so condescending. If you have a different view, write about it on your own space. This is mine and YES, it is overwhelming to 1st time solo travellers.

      Have a good day, MAN! Oh and thanks for stopping by 🙂

      • I. S.

        I AM because I felt personally hurt. Maybe I am wrong but that was my 1st feeling when reading this.

        There are good blogs for (female) single travelers written sensitively. Maybe you’re out of this perspective while traveling with others.

        Marrakesh is quite easy to handle compared with Accra e. g. I’d find it pitiful if travelers may decide against visiting Marrakesh because of remarks like here. When someone reads this – it’s a lie. Marrakesh isn’t a monster 😉 I visited Karachi in Pakistan and Hargeysa in Somaliland – truly not so easy to handle cities.

        May noone feel shy to visit Marrakesh please.

        • Bugo

          oh don’t feel hurt as that was not my intention at all. My blog focuses on my personal experience and my honest opinions. Marrakech is wonderful (we absolutely LOVED it and would go back). I have not told people not to visit Marrakech – you seem to really be drawing this conclusion even after I have written a full blog post telling people about my lovely experience and reasons to actually visit Marrakech.

          I’m glad you know there are “good blogs” for female solo travellers, maybe you should refer to them for this kind of information instead? You seem like a well travelled person and that’s wonderful; if Marrakech is on your list of places to visit as a 1st time solo traveller, that’s 100% cool as well. The beauty of language is that we can all have different opinions. My advice would be to focus on the blog posts relevant to what you are looking for out of your travel experience x

  • Bisoye Lawal

    If I haven’t been to Morocco, this write-up would have influenced me to. This is a complete and accurate summary of a trip to Marrakech, it’s a must-do destination .

    • Bugo

      haha I’m glad that someone who has been shares my thoughts. I appreciate your comment lovely and thank you for sharing 🙂 x