A first timer’s guide to Paris
Paris is possibly my most visited city. I have now visited Paris solo, 2 different girls’ trips, baecation(s) and as a family with my baby. In August, I visited Paris on a girl’s trip with my friend Ada. It was her first time in Paris and I became tour guide. After the trip, I thought to write a first timer’s guide to Paris seeing that I have now experienced Paris in so many different ways along the years. This post will be a combination of 2 of my most recent trips – in December and in August.
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Since my most recent visit to Paris was Ada’s first time, I made sure to explore as if we were both there for the first time. We went to the popular spots – because you cannot be in Paris and not go to some of the most talked about locations. However, we also sought out some hidden gems to balance the trip quite nicely.
The best time to visit Paris
Paris is an all season destination and has something to offer in every season. Having been to Paris in every season, I think autumn and winter are my favourite as they are less busy and most romantic. Summer can be fun but it is just too much chaos. Spring is very pretty and when I visited in May, I remember it being quite wet for most of the visit. Everyone complains about rain in England but have you met rain in Paris? LOL
A first timer’s guide to Paris: Where to stay in Paris
Hotel Rochechouart
Montmatre has always been one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Paris. Hotel Rochechouart is on Boulevard Rochechouart in Montmatre. It boasts of art deco architecture, modern luxury and has been in existence since 1929. The best thing about its location is that it is only a 15 mins walk from Gare du Nord, which meant that we did not need to get a taxi. We simply walked down while fully immersing ourselves in the vibe of Montmatre.
We stayed in Hotel Rochechouart when we visited Paris with our baby, Adanna. Our suite opened up to a Juliet balcony, overlooked Boulevard de Rochechouart and one could see Sacre Coeur in the distance. It had 2 rooms – a living area and a bedroom. This was perfect because we set up our baby’s cot in the living area.
Hotel Le Walt
For our girls’ trip to Paris, I decided to stay a bit more central so the 7th arrondissement was my pick. I had saved Le Walt a while ago after seeing it on Instagram and immediately prayed it was available. To my surprise, it was. We had wanted a room with a view of the Eiffel Tower, which was what drew me to this hotel. However, after looking at room sizes, we decided to settle for the Executive room – best choice ever! It was a big room – big for a central Paris hotel and the bathroom was lovely.
Hotel Le Walt is a 4 star boutique hotel situated between Champ de Mars and Les Invalides. For a first timer’s guide to Paris, I totally recommend Hotel Le Walt. We really had the best stay here from the kind staff to the clean rooms; I would totally rate Le Walt 10/10. The fact that there was a metro station 30 seconds away, École Militaire was also a bonus. Across from the hotel is a Carrefour supermarket, which was convenient for late night snacks. The area had a lot of restaurants dotted around and we made a mental note to try as many as possible. Read on to see if we did try them all.
A first timer’s guide to Paris: Getting Around Paris
Paris’ metro is one of the best in the world. I’d compare it to the London underground so if you can navigate London’s underground, Parisian Metro will be a breeze. If staying in Paris for a week, get the Paris metro card. For this, you will need a passport photo and ID. I always find uber relatively cheaper than in London. So when we were in Paris with our baby, uber was an easier, less stressful option. Between the metro and uber-ing, we were able to get around pretty easily.
A first timer’s guide to Paris – What to do in Paris
Jardin du Luxembourg
I have always loved a garden visit on every trip. We got there at about 8.30 for a morning walk and it was the best decision. For the 1st 30 mins or so, it felt like we had it all to ourselves, which was quite cool. We walked around and admired all the pretty flowers and took so many videos to fill our phones. Our final stop was the Medici Fountain, which; in my opinion is one of the most beautiful spots to visit in Paris. It was originally built in 1630 by Marie de Medici and moved to its present location by 1866.
After our lovely stroll around Jardin du Luxembourg, we walked just across the road to one of my favourite cafés, Au Petit Suisse. It is such an unassuming café and the perfect spot to people watch. We were lucky to be sat next to an interesting car owner who parked his car right in front of the café. Whilst I’m not great with recognising vintage cars, this one was a beauty.
Champs Elysées
Is it possible to visit Paris without checking Champs Elysées out? Yes, it actually is. When we visited months ago with Adanna, we didn’t dare go to Champs Elysées, as I really was not ready to navigate the busy street with my baby. However, on this girls’ trip to Paris, it felt like a great time to revisit my old friend. It was a lovely stroll down from the metro while admiring all the things along the route. From spotting usual faves like Ladurée and the massive Louis Vuitton store; to admiring the cafés that have popped up all along the street.
I remember thinking about my 1st time on Champs Elysées and how that trip and that moment changed my life.
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L’Arc de Triomphe
The fact that L’Arc de Triomphe is at the end of Champs Elysées will forever feel epic to me. I always stand in the middle of the street and look left to Place de la Concorde and right to L’Arc de Triomphe. And it feels so…wholesome. Like, yes this is Paris.
For a first timer’s guide to Paris, I recommend visiting L’Arc de Triomphe just in time for sunset. It was the most beautiful sight. We found a bench, sat and stared lustfully as the sun set slowly and beautifully behind the arc. I had never seen that happen so it was as much an exciting sight for my friend as it was for me.
It’s not a surprise that Paris really makes me happy and watching the sunset on L’Arc de Triomphe is one that will stay with me for a long time.
Palais Galliera
I was determined to find a new “Eiffel Tower” spot and I found one that I think might still be somewhat of a hidden gem. I contemplated between Palais Galliera and Palais de Tokyo as it is just opposite. We had an understated view of the Eiffel Tower from the steps of the Palais Galliera and it was a delightful sight. Palais Galliera is a fashion museum that opened in 1977 with collections from the 18th century. It is located in the 16th arrondissement and is one of my favourite places to have a peek of the Eiffel Tower. The building is really pretty and as with typical 18th and 19th century Parisian architecture, it is super imposing. I’m sure it will get more popular with time as yet another Eiffel Tower photo spot but for now, it remains a bit of a special gem.
Galeries Lafayette
If I had to describe Galeries Lafayette, I’d say it is the shopping centers of all shopping centers. If there is one shopping center to visit, it has to be Galeries Lafayette. From opulence to luxury to chic, it has everything you would want to see in a Parisian shopping center. We walked around and finally took ourselves up to the rooftop to have a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. I visited at Christmas with Mr E and Adanna to see the decorations and we absolutely loved it. So on my most recent visit, my friend and I just went in for a mooch. We climbed up the 3rd floor for “the look down” and that view is one of the most epic ever. It is what makes Galeries Lafayette really pretty.
Palais Royal
One of my favourite areas in Paris is Palais Royal. There is so much to see and do in this area and for 1st timer’s in Paris; it is one of my most recommended areas to stay in. On this trip, we visited Colonnes de Buren, Jardin Palais Royal, Louvre and made a pit stop at Emily in Paris’ Office, Galerie Patrick Fourtin LOL. Ok we only walked passed Galerie Patrick Fourtin but as huge Emily in Paris fans, it was a wonderful pit stop. Fans of Netflix’s Emily in Paris will recognise the square as the entrance to Emily’s office, Savoir and more recently, Agence Grateau.
Jardin Palais Royal is one of my favourite gardens in Paris and it was lovely to see flowers in bloom. The fountain was a pretty site and as we walked around, we noticed a few people sitting around reading, with a book in hand. It would not be Paris if there weren’t a few couples sharing kisses and holding hands. It was really the most wholesome sight to see in the morning.
Tea Rooms in Paris
From there, we made our way to the Café Kitsuné in Tuileries, got some breakfast and headed across the road to Jardin des Tuileries to enjoy it.
Our final stop in Palais Royal was the famous tearoom, Angelina. Ada and I had hoped to have brunch there after our morning walk but the queue was too long. We ended up buying the famous hot chocolates and some macarons to go. Angelina is another pretty spot that is quite famous for having instagrammable vibes. Its interior is actually quite pretty and I will be the first to admit that their hot chocolate is really yummy.
We ended up weaving in and out of streets; window-shopping, spotting cute cafés and then, went back the hotel for a nap.
Pont Alexandre III
In my opinion, Pont Alexandre III is one of the prettiest bridges in the world. I find it incredibly stunning. Especially when you walk under the by pass and stand by the seine, the backdrop is gorgeous. The bridge has been a favourite of mine and it was lovely to show Ada why I thought it was really cute. Thankfully, I did not have to explain anything as the bridge did all the talking. We got there at the right time, as the sun hit the gold ornaments and sparkled under the blue sky as the clouds tried to peek through. Summer afternoons can be so beautiful and I’m glad that we visited this monument to relive one of Emily in Paris’ iconic scenes LOL I know, I will stop talking about Emily in Paris. Today is not that day though.
Explore Montmatre
One of our afternoons was spent exploring the beautiful streets of Montmatre. We strolled through the popular and instagrammable café, Le Consulat to Rue de l’Abreuvoir and took photos in front of La Maison Rose. Rue de l’Abreuvoir is one of the oldest and prettiest streets in Paris. It is one I love skipping down whenever I’m in Montmatre. The houses on either side are believed to have been there since the 1320s so it’s a lovely transportation back in time.
Trocadéro
I always say that Trocadéro is the melting point of all the madness. How else can you explain a spot that is busy all the time? I mean, even at 6am, there are people hanging around there, taking photos and shooting videos. We decided to head there at night so we could watch the Eiffel Tower lights sparkle. Since it was still really bright we ended up having to wait a little longer than anticipated. In summer evenings like when we visited, Eiffel Tower lights comes on once it is dark.
I kept googling “when do Eiffel Tower lights come on in summer”, “what time does the Eiffel Tower sparkle in summer” etc. For some reason, I could not find any concrete information so all we had to do was wait. Alas, at around 9.31pm, we saw the first glimpse of light which meant that the sparkle would start at 10pm.
A reminder that the Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour for 5 mins after dusk
At 10pm, it started to sparkle, much to the cheer of everyone around us. It felt like something exciting was happening because it really was an exciting moment that hundreds of us gathered around had been waiting for.
A first timer’s guide to Paris – The Eiffel Tower Hunt
When we visited with Adanna, I was keen to check out a few new Eiffel Tower spots and our first was Avenue de Camoëns. I say new because I had not visited them yet in all my travels to Paris.
Avenue de Camoëns turned out to be one of my favourite spots to view the Eiffel Tower. Although we got there quite late in the afternoon, it was not too busy. We took some photos; people watched (it’s a great spot to do this), had a little chat with a newly married couple and just passed time there while Adanna slept in her stroller. Once she was awake, we walked down the steps and headed to Avenue de New York and finally, Trocadéro. We spent the evening watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle through the French air. Before we headed back to the hotel, we had a mooch around the 16ème arrondissement. There was a little patisserie on Avenue Paul-Doumer where we stopped for some cakes.
The best spots to view the Eiffel Tower around Trocadéro
Any 1st timer in Paris will most likely have one request – To see the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower is a popular icon like the Statue of Liberty in New York and the London (cough! Tower) bridge in London. There are so many spots to view the Eiffel Tower from which include up close, in and around the Eiffel Tower, hidden streets, bridges and even from hotel room balconies and windows. It is definitely the monument to build your hotel or restaurant around and you can watch people flock there to catch a glimpse.
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My recommendation to any 1st timer in Paris is to start at Bir Hakeim. There is a metro stop with the same name and once you get off, go left towards Trocadéro. As you circle that route and walk across the bridge, the Eiffel Tower is in view through out the journey.
A few Eiffel Tower viewing points worth mentioning are:
- Bir Hakeim
- Pont de L’ena
- Avenue de New York
- Jardin de Trocadéro
- Palais Galliera
- Avenue de Camoëns – with extra time, you can make your way up the stairs to get a skyline view of the Eiffel Tower from Avenue de Camoëns.
However, the most epic view of all is from Trocadéro, which is where you end your walk and wait for the sparkle.
A first timer’s guide to Paris – Where to eat in Paris
Now, I will be the first to admit that Paris has the most wonderful café culture. I mean, you think al fresco café and Paris is immediately what comes to mind. We made sure to try a few places I had never been which I found quite exciting.
Although I am not a foodie, I know bland food when I taste it. I will caveat this by saying that France is not somewhere I go to for food. Pastries, sandwiches like the spectacular croque monsieur and baked goods in general, I will totally give it to France. But when it comes to a basic dinner, I will not hold my breath.
Perruche
I had wanted to visit Perruche for the longest time and my girls’ trip with Ada was the perfect trip for it. We ended up booking our reservation 7 days before and got the 12.30pm slot on a Sunday. This meant that we had the 1st slot as it opened for business.
Perruche is located on the 9th floor of Printemps. It gives very strong Mediterranean vibes with the yellow coastal décor and al fresco rooftop dining. As with most picturesque locations, I was not expecting much for the food. However, surprisingly, Perruche was actually really good.
We had some calamari for our starter and a tomato based pasta for our mains. In addition, we ordered a portion of fries to share, thinking the pasta portion would be small but we were wrong. Portion size was actually really decent and I was so full that I had none of my fries in the end. We order virgin mojitos with strawberry filings because we wanted “pretty drinks” LOL.
I would rate Perruche 9/10. The views were epic, food was yummy and the service was wonderful. It is an expensive restaurant but tbh, no surprises there and no difference from the fancy London restaurants.
La Commanderie
This was literally next-door to Le Waltz so was the first place we ate. Of all the places we went, it was my favourite. We both had bolognese and it was so yummy that we were tempted to order a 2nd plate each. As mentioned for the hotel, it was literally outside the École Militaire metro station, which was perfect to get around.
La Commanderie was so good that we ate there twice. I had planned to try out other new spots on this trip but I knew I was not over that pasta so we went back. Again, there were no surprises, we ate our delicious pasta bolognese as we people watched. It was such a cute spot for our Girls’ Trip to Paris. The 2nd time we ate here, we spent 4 hours just chatting, eating and people watching. Undoubtedly, this was one of the highlights of our trip.
The prices were very reasonable and I think that sold it for us. I would rate La Commanderie a 9.5/10, absolutely no complaints from me whatsoever.
Café de Flore
It was my 2nd time visiting this café; however it was the first time post Emily in Paris fame. Café de Flore has always been one of my favourite cafés in Paris. Not necessarily because the food is good but because I had read its history so I knew it was Parisian heritage. Although a lot of people swear it’s overrated; for me, it is just as Parisian as Paris gets. We had breakfast; people watched, took some photos and walked next door to Les Deux Magots. If I had to choose between both, I’m sure it would be Les Deux Magots. It just has a more sophisticated and less pretentious crowd, which I love.
Pink Mamma
For lunch, Pink Mamma is the perfect option for some mouth-watering pasta. This is one restaurant in Montmatre I always recommend. Apart from it being yet another pretty spot (hello…most popular staircase in Paris lol), the food is actually really good. It was also the one restaurant in Paris that had a high chair for Adanna so I give them extra points for being child friendly.
Although walk-ins are allowed, it is better to book a table in advance to avoid having to queue. We booked our table a few days before our trip and got a Sunday afternoon slot.
FAQS – A first timer’s guide to Paris
Is Paris child friendly?
Now this will be a tough one for me because I did not find Paris baby friendly at all. Except for Pink Mamma that had a high hair, it seemed impossible to find one in the restaurants. The baby changing facilities were non existent as well. I love Paris but I’ll wait until Adanna is 4 to go back with her.
Is Paris great for solo travel?
Yes. As much as Paris has been known to be for lovers, it is actually a great destination for solo travellers. You will never feel like you are alone or lonely.
How long is enough to spend in Paris?
For a 1st timer’s guide to Paris, 3 – 5 days are enough to feel like you have seen and enjoyed Paris. However if travelling a little more slowly, a minimum of 7 days are perfect.
A first timer’s guide to Paris
Paris will always have my heart. I always say that I need to take a rest from Paris to visit other places but I’m not sure if that will ever happen. I might give myself a 2 year ban maybe but don’t hold your breath LOL. My justification is that as much as I really love Paris, it is also a really easy trip from London. A trip that is a 2hr train journey away from a central London station makes all the difference. Especially when you have a full time job like me and need to maximise every time off.
Paris can be done as a day trip from London, a weekend away or even a whole week. With Paris, the number of days you stay is never enough so the best thing is to decide what time you have and make it work.
My highlight was taking our baby girl to all these sites we had seen as a couple and watching her curious eyes light up. She seemed fascinated by the sparkly lights at the Eiffel Tower and looked genuinely happy to be in Paris. Who can blame her? She is her mother’s daughter after all.
As this is a first timer’s guide to Paris, I’ll round up by wishing it is magical for you too.
Until my next trip to Paris LOL
Bisous, ‘Bugo x
