Travel Guide to Copenhagen

Copenhagen has always been one of the European cities I knew I’d get to at some point. For me, it has always been on the same list as Oslo, Luxembourg, Reykjavik and Stockholm. There is definitely a pattern as you can see. Since Copenhagen was my 1st time visiting a Scandinavian country, I had no idea what to expect. This travel guide to Copenhagen covers what we did in the 3 days we spent in the city.

As I have now firmly entered the travelling with a baby space, everywhere we visited in Copenhagen was family friendly. Copenhagen is known for being one of the most kids friendly countries in Europe. With a lot of playgrounds dotted around the city and pubic green spaces, it is easy to see why. It is also no wonder that Copenhagen is a popular location for parents seeking a short city escape from the UK with their children.

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Travel Guide to Copenhagen – About the Scandinavian city

Copenhagen is the capital and the most popular city in Denmark. According to a lot of publications, it is in the top 10 of the most expensive cities in the world. I presume it can be visited on a budget; however, in the grand scheme of things, it is an expensive city break.

Copenhagen is quite interesting and calm. I thought about the perfect word to describe it and “calm” keeps coming to mind. This is not to say that it was empty. There were a lot of people out and about but it felt like we had been given a collective memo to take things easy and avoid shouting. I’m not sure what it was but there was a serenity we felt all 3 days we spent in Copenhagen, which was truly wonderful.

Copenhagen is also one of the most bicycle friendly cities in the world. The city is flat and the bicycle lanes are carved out to encourage people to cycle more. I think this is such a fantastic initiative which encourages a more healthy lifestyle. It is also probably the reason for the calmness that we felt in the city.

London to Copenhagen

Copenhagen is quite a popular city break from London and most airlines fly there. We flew Ryan Air from London Stansted airport and in less than 2 hours, we were in Copenhagen. Getting to the hotel from the airport was easy with uber and it was a short ride.

The Copenhagen Card

The 1st thing to know once you have booked your trip to Copenhagen is to buy a Copenhagen Card. We have established that Copenhagen is expensive and although there are a lot of free public spaces, there are losts of fun experiences you have to pay for if you are planning a well rounded experience.

You can buy this card at the airport once you land. Make sure to redeems and activate it as it includes public transport to and fro the airport. Depending on the number of days, the cost of the card will differ. 

The Copenhagen card covers entrance to Tivoli (you pay for any food or/and rides) and most of the attractions around the city. For all the information about the Copenhagen card, the Official Copenhagen City Card website answers all the FAQs. 

Travel Guide to Copenhagen – Where To Stay in Copenhagen

I actually spent a while narrowing down what hotel to book as it had to tick a few boxes and The Square Copenhagen was our winner. I cannot recommend this hotel enough. The Square Copenhagen is a part of the Danish Arp-Hansen hotel group and is located right in the heart of the city. I also cannot talk about the hotel without mentioning the location, which is a real winner. Everywhere we went was within walking distance. Tivoli, for example was a 5-minute walk and there were so many restaurants littered all around.

The Square Hotel is in København H, which is where you want to stay to be close to everywhere. It is also near Copenhagen Central Station, which has a direct link to the international airport.

The Square Hotel is a baby friendly hotel in Copenhagen and this was another reason I was sold. We stayed in a junior suite deluxe that had a balcony overlooking the square. Our room was big and from our bed, we could literally see what was going on in the square. The bathroom had heated floors and Adanna loved crawling on it. Our booking included breakfast and we also had access to the Executive lounge. This meant that we had access to free snacks and drinks all day.

It is worth mentioning that they have recently won the best hotel in Copenhagen for 2023 and I am not surprised. I always say that we get quite lucky with wonderful hotel staff but the ones at The Square Hotel really stood out for us. Any staff that takes out their time to entertain a baby will always win me over.

Travel Guide to Copenhagen – What To Do in Copenhagen

The best things to do in Copenhagen are actually free. This travel guide to Copenhagen will be a mix of free things to do and the experiences we paid for.

1. Tivoli Gardens

Tivoli is really the most amazing place to visit. It’s a mini Disney Land and the fanciest amusement park. I thought it was quite cool that it was located right in the city center. We went in at around 6pm and stayed way past sunset, which was the best thing to do. Staying late meant we got to experience Tivoli in the daytime and also at night when the lights come on and everywhere twinkles – truly spectacular.

Tivoli opened in 1843 and is the 3rd oldest park in the world. Between riding the roller-coasters, watching shows and eating at one of the numerous restaurants, it is very easy to spend a whole day at Tivoli.

2. Nyhavn

The 17th century waterfront has become one of the prettiest strips in the city. It is Copenhagen’s entertainment district. The waterfront is lined with pretty coloured buildings, which are now cafés, restaurants and bars. Nyhavn is very much a vibe on its own and the most photographed building is the yellow one that sticks out “Nyhavn 17”

Funfacts:

1. The world’s oldest tattoo parlour is located in the basement of Nyhavn 17 and has been operating since 1884.
2. Nyhavn was once a red light district until the 60s when it rebranded.
3. Notable people have lived in some of the houses including Danish author, Hans Christian Andersen. He lived in no 20 from 1834 – 1838, in No 67 from 1845 – 1864 and no 18 in his final years till he died.
4. No 9 is the oldest building and has not been modified since it was built in 1681.
5. The movie, Danish Girl with Eddie Redmayne and Alicia Vikander was filmed in Nyhavn. Their house was no 12 and the director was given free access to film in and around the canal.

3. Canal Tour

There is no travel guide to Copenhagen without mentioning a canal tour. If there is a canal in the city, a canal tour is always highly recommended. They weave through the canals while giving access to the city’s history that could have otherwise been more complicated to get to, on land. The tour usually starts from Nyhavn and takes you all around the popular sights and hidden gems as well. It is definitely one to do if you’d like a guide to give more meaning to the structures.

4. Strøget

This is Copenhagen’s high street but with a twist. On Strøget, you will find high street shops, independent boutiques and super high-end brands all lined side by side. It’s Copenhagen’s main shopping street and actually one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, which makes it popular with tourists. If shopping is your thing, then Strøget is the place to be. We usually don’t shop when we travel; so we waited until evening when it was not too busy and went for the most beautiful stroll.

We stopped to get ice cream and hotdogs along the way. The most precious moment was when Mr E scooped Adanna from her stroller to dance with her while a busker played in the distance. These are memories I will never forget.

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5. Copenhagen Botanical Garden

The botanical garden is a part of the University of Copenhagen’s Natural History Museum. It houses the largest collections of living plants in the whole country. We found it incredibly beautiful; one of the most scenic green spaces we have visited in Europe. Adanna particularly liked the pond and was mesmerised by a colourful fish, which surprised us by swimming close to where we stood. We saw some ducks, birds and as it was a sunny day, there were people with their picnic baskets relaxing on the grass. Copenhagen Botanical Garden is known for its historic glass houses from 1874 and 10 hectares of green space.

6. Rosenborg Castle and The King’s Gardens

The most famous Danish King, Christian IV, built Rosenborg Castle in the 17th century. A fantastic example of renaissance castles of the time, it features around 400 years of royal treasures like the Royal Regalia and Crown Jewels. Definitely one of the best preserved renaissance buildings till date. Imagine being built early 1600s and still looking pretty perfect. There are tours for tourists who would like to have a peep inside. I am guessing that it is a popular one especially if you get to see the Crown Jewels.

The King’s Garden, which surrounds the castle, is one of the prettiest public gardens in Copenhagen. There is a rose garden, which blooms in summer, and the surrounding gardens are well manicured all year round.

7. Amalienborg

This is the official residence of the Danish Royal Family. It was completed in 1760 and since then, members of the Royal Family have lived there. Its courtyard is so beautiful and the statue of King Frederick V stands tall in its center. Amalienborg has 4 identical buildings aka palaces all in rococo architectural style. I’d say it’s most likely the most modern of baroque style architecture that I’ve ever seen.

What is there to see here you might ask? Well, if you time your visit perfectly, you get to witness the change of guards. Amalienborg is guarded by the Royal Life Guards and by noon everyday, there is a grand change of guards. They match from Rosenborg Castle to Amalienborg, through the streets for all to see. Every 2 hours, there is a post replacement, which is what we caught. It is all so formal and fancy and feels like you are watching something so historic.

8. Christianshavn

This is one of the most picturesque areas in Copenhagen. Christianshavn canal resembles Nyhavn’s but it is much quieter and dare I say, prettier. The scenic canals and gorgeous colourful houses line the neighbourhood. It is very charming and idyllic. A short walk away brings one to Freetown Christiania, which is an independent community and a popular tourist attraction.

9. The Little Mermaid

For a little bit of history, the founder of Carlsberg beer, Carl Jacobsen was enchanted with the little mermaid character at the Royal Danish Theatre. He had watched a ballet performance of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Mermaid and commissioned sculptor, Edvard Eriksen to create the sculpture.

This classic bronze sculpture has watched over the harbour since it opened in 1913. It is located in the stunning Langelinie promenade and on spring days, cherry blossoms welcome you.

The Little Mermaid holds the no 1 spot for Denmark’s most popular tourist attraction and can be seen from both land and sea. I preferred the view from land as we could see her front view and a lot of people actually got quite close. The canal tour brings you as close but from the way the sculpture is positioned, my guess would be that anyone on the tour would only view her from the back.

10. Osterdsparken

This was an unplanned find. We had been walking from the hotel to the Botanical Garden and then spotted a gate that led to this beautiful garden. It was so empty and serene and the most beautiful green space. 

 Orstedsparken is a romantic public park and is named after the 3 Orsted brothers. It has a lovely lake and paths to walk or push a stroller. It is along the famous row of parks that make up the “fortification ring” after it was decommissioned in the 1870s.

Orsterdsparken is a great spot for picnics, people watching or just a quiet moment with oneself. Its green space is perfect for littles who want to run around and enjoy the freedom.

11. Langelinie

The Langelinie promenade is beautiful. When we went, we had just missed the spring cherry blossoms but thanks to blue skies, it still looked incredibly gorgeous. It is located in central Copenhagen and is home to the famous Little Mermaid statue. It is very popular with tourists and cruise ships coming into Copenhagen will berth at the Langelinie Pier.

There are outlet stores in Langelinie as well so it is popular for shoppers looking to score a discount. We walked all the way down to Kastellet which, from outside, looked like quite a serious building. The Pier has a number of memorials and statues of what I guess must be very famous people lol. It is such a pretty promenade and while our little one slept, Mr E and I had a scenic walk with ice cream, just like old times.

As we were leaving the promenade, we stumbled upon a really lovely church, St Alban’s. Otherwise known as the English church. It is a lovely example of Victorian architecture from 1887 and is an Anglican parish. Immediately you enter the church, you can understand why it is called the “English church“. St Alban’s could pass for one of the popular Cathedrals in the UK and had a very English feel to it. Definitely a must visit if ever in Copenhagen.

Travel Guide to Copenhagen – Where to eat in Copenhagen

Cakenhagen

If there is one place for treats and cakes, it is Cakenhagen. They offer a mix of Danish and French pastries in a cool location within Tivoli. The hot chocolate would rival any café in Paris and London, the coffee was delicious as well. I liked the play on name – Copenhagen vs Cakenhagen and that was what initially drew me into the shop.

Tivoli Food Hall

The best food we actually ate was from Cocks and Cows located in Tivoli Food Hall. We had their Korean Chicken wings every night, it was that good. One thing about us, we will eat the same thing everyday if we like it. Travelling with a baby means that trying out swanky restaurants is out of the question. Well at least, until she stops throwing her food back in my face, take out in bed it is.

FAQs about Travelling to Copenhagen

Is Copenhagen expensive?

Yes, it is. Denmark is one of the most expensive countries in the world and the Danish Krone is very strong against the pound. There is not that much of a difference if spending in pounds (whether the UK is an expensive country is story for another day lol) but yes, Copenhagen is on the pricier scale of European city breaks.

Is Copenhagen baby friendly?

Yes it is incredibly baby friendly. Lanes are wide enough to cycle with a baby buggy attached to your bicycle etc. Baby changing areas were available everywhere and it just felt refreshing to be there with Adanna. Even the hotel had a little package waiting for her and I found that very sweet. They also had stokke high chairs at the restaurants and not the typical flimsy ones you get in most restaurants. Not that I am complaining but it was nice that babies had cute seats too.

What is the best time to visit Copenhagen?

We went in March and the weather was lovely. It felt like a colder spring month but the sun was shining. The best time to visit Copenhagen is between April – August. If I had to pick, I’d stick with April and May just before the summer rush.

How many days are enough to visit Copenhagen?

If you are trying to see and do everything, then you would need more than 3 days. However, in 3 days, you should be able to see a lot of the city quite slowly. We spent 3 full days there and had lie-ins, a lot of relaxed afternoons spent in the hotel and we still managed to see and do a lot.

With 4 days in Copenhagen, you could even add a day trip to Malmo, Sweden, which is less than an hour by train.

Travel Guide to Copenhagen

Copenhagen is a well-rounded European city. We enjoyed it and wondered why it took us so long to visit. Maybe the universe knew it would be perfect for a family friendly trip or just totally random.

Until the next Scandinavian city break….

Bisous, Bugo x